Urban Trajectory of the palate

taste construction and bourgeois sociability in the chronicles and ads of the newspaper O Estado de S. Paulo (1920s)

Abstract

The present article aims to present the results of research in chronicles and ads of the newspaper O Estado de S. Paulo. It is an important writing for the study of eating habits in the city. The chronicles and the ads intended to modify the codes of civility, the ways of acting and consuming in a changing city. Understanding the city of São Paulo during the 1920s as a privileged space for the observation of modernity as a physical and mental experience, it was used in the press. Specially columns of chronicles entitled “Coisas da Cidade” and advertisements for restaurants, confectionery, and other spaces for food became important documents for promoting new bourgeois habits and hygienic standards for the places of sociability in urban space, especially those destined to eat and drink, and transformed then into places of leisure and entertainment. It is understood that publications in the press mediated the relation of the readership by promoting debates with the public authorities, service providers and citizens, making their space in the newspaper a means of promoting and publicizing the ways of behaving in the city that was advertised as a metropolis.